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Hakone travel guide

Hakone is a hot-spring district in the volcanic hills west of Tokyo rather than a single town. Hakone-Yumoto sits at the foot of the valley, Miyanoshita and Gora climb the slopes along the mountain railway, and Lake Ashi lies beyond the steaming vents of Owakudani. Where your inn sits on that loop decides how far you haul luggage after the train.

Getting there and choosing your base

  • Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku: Limited-express trains run direct from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, the gateway station at the bottom of the valley. An inn in Yumoto needs no further connection; anywhere higher means another train or a bus.
  • Odawara station: The Kodama shinkansen and JR Tokaido Line trains stop here, and the Hakone-Tozan Line continues up through Hakone-Yumoto to Gora. Japan Rail Pass holders usually come this way and pay separately for the mountain line.
  • Highway buses from Shinjuku and Haneda: Buses from the Busta Shinjuku terminal run via Gotemba to Togendai on Lake Ashi, and a few daily services link Haneda Airport and Yokohama with Togendai and Hakone-Yumoto. They suit a lakeside stay better than one in the lower valley.

Areas to consider

Hakone-Yumoto

Suits a first night out of Tokyo, with the most restaurants and day-bath complexes within walking distance of the station. Several inns sit across the river or up steep lanes, so ask whether the inn runs a pick-up from Hakone-Yumoto station.

Miyanoshita

Suits a quieter stay midway up the Hakone-Tozan Line, between the valley floor and Gora. Few places to eat stay open in the evening, so compare the half-board rate with the room-only price before booking.

Gora

Suits travellers riding the full sightseeing loop, since the mountain railway ends here and the cable car to Sounzan begins. Confirm whether the inn is nearer Gora station or one of the cable car stops further up the slope.

Lake Ashi (Moto-Hakone and Togendai)

Suits Fuji views, lake boats and walks along the old Tokaido road near the Hakone checkpoint. Buses thin out in the evening, so work out how you will reach the inn if your train or bus arrives late.

When to go

Hakone is busiest at weekends because it is so close to Tokyo, and inn prices rise accordingly; Golden Week (29 April to 5 May), the summer Obon break and New Year are the hardest dates to book. June into July is the rainy season. The ropeway closes for inspections and in strong wind, with replacement buses, which can add time to a lakeside check-in.

Before choosing a room

  • Ryokan rates are usually quoted per person and often include dinner and breakfast. Check whether the price is for one guest or the room, and the latest arrival time for dinner; arriving the same day you land in Japan risks missing it.
  • Shared baths are used without swimwear. For privacy, look for a room with its own bath or a reservable family bath (kashikiri), which usually costs extra.
  • Many onsen still refuse guests with tattoos. Ask the inn directly before booking rather than relying on the listing.

Sources and planning resources

Facts checked on . Transport services, taxes and hotel offers can change. Confirm the details for your trip before booking.